From North to South—The World of Chinese Noodles
Food plays an outsized role in Chinese culture, and among different Chinese foods, noodles may be the most loved. Over millennia of noodle consumption in China, noodles have evolved into countless shapes, sizes, and textures and been prepared with different seasonings and pairings. The type of noodle consumed in China differs from region to region. People in wheat growing areas prefer wheat noodles, while those in rice growing areas favor rice noodles. Moreover, different parts of the country have their own signature noodle dishes. There are likely thousands of these noodle dishes—each using different types of noodles, sauces, seasonings, and flavors. Thus, noodles in certain ways reflect regional differences, tastes, social habits, and even identity. They serve as comfort foods that people grow up with and by which they remember their hometowns. The following is a representative sample of Chinese people’s favorite noodle dishes—from north to south.
Beijing Zhajiangmian (北京炸酱面, aka fried-sauce noodles) is popular all over northern China. Zhajiangmian is a humble dish (feature image). It uses a thick, fermented soybean paste, together with a bit of minced pork-belly, to make the sauce. After stir-frying, the sauce becomes so rich and flavorful that only a small amount is needed for a whole bowl of noodles, hence the name fried-sauce noodles. In Beijing, the noodles are often paired with some seasonal vegetables. Although the dish is native to China, it has been embraced by Koreans for a long time. Known as ja jang myun, the dish can be found in restaurants all across Korea.
Shanxi Province (山西省) is the home of Daoxiaomian (刀削面, aka shaved noodles). After the flour is kneaded, it is shaped into a long, big lump of dough and then shaved with a special knife (photo below) into willow-leaf shaped noodles into boiling water. After being cooked, the noodles are soaked in cold water to make them chewier. The noodles, now popular all over China, can be paired with different ingredients and seasonings, and in soup or stir-fried. What attracts most people to this dish is the noodles’ al dente texture.
Biangbiangmian ( 面) is native to the Shanxi Province (陕西省) and popular in Xi’an (西安市). These hand-made, inch-wide noodles are thick and wide like a belt. The name , pronounced as biangbiang, comes from the sound when the noodles hit on the work surface while being pulled. The stretching and banging of the dough help make the noodles chewy and shiny. The noodles go well with or without soup and can be mixed with seasonings to one’s taste. This once obscure Xi’an dish has been made widely-known across China and among Chinese diaspora communities worldwide by social media.
Juanziji (卷子鸡, aka rolled-pancake chicken) is a popular dinner dish in Gansu Province (甘肃). The cooking involves first rolling up a large, chewy, pancake (饼), made from unleavened dough, and cutting the rolled-pancake into sections of about an inch wide. Chicken pieces and the pancake sections are then braised in seasonings and a sauce until the liquid is completely reduced. The pancake sections—spreading out like noodles and thoroughly absorbing the taste of the chicken and seasonings—become the focal point of this dish.
A daily bowl of Lanzhou nuiroumian (牛肉面, aka beef noodles) is a must for most Lanzhou (兰州) residents. It includes a clear broth with thick slides of turnip and made-to-order noodles being topped with chopped green onions. Most people would eat this dish with a healthy amount of chili sauce and a side dish of sliced beef. Lanzhou beef noodles are always made to order and one can order noodles in at least half a dozen thicknesses, widths, and shapes. The most common thin-noodle is number-2 thin (二细), which is about the thickness of spaghetti. The other extreme is the “belt” noodle (裤带面)—a single closed loop of an inch-wide noodle in a single serving. The highlight of this dish is the clear broth made from simmering beef bones for several hours.
Lanzhou beef noodles are made with hand-pulled noodles called lamian (拉面). As the name implies, hand-pulled noodles are formed by pulling the dough by hand into long, elastic strands and then folding them together. Each fold doubles the number of noodle strands. So just a few repetitions of pull-and-fold creates dozens of noodle strands—the more repetitions, the finer the noodles.